Day two of my little trip started with another greedy breakfast and a temperature of minus 2. It’s big coat, gloves and two pairs of socks weather. Luckily, for once, I have packed the appropriate clothing.
My breakfast was interrupted by the raised voices of an older British couple. Mrs UK was upset that Mr UK was interfering with the way she was using the cereal dispenser. This culminated in a loud “will you stop trying to control me!” In the dining room. It served as a reminder that just because you travel with someone doesn’t necessarily mean you are having a better time! Glad I didn’t have anyone controlling my breakfast game, I ordered another coffee and felt quite smug.
Wondering what to do with myself today I check my notes on my phone. I have been collecting various information following my Google expeditions and find I have written ‘Dorsoduro’. It’s a neighbourhood known for its bars and restaurants between Rialto and San Marco. I head there.
The water bus stop is Academia, snappily titled for the university. Upon disembarking and wandering round I find most things closed. There is a downside to a January visit and it’s the fact that Venetians have a rest and Christmas extends. All trees and lights are still in evidence. I imagine it’s buzzing in summer but now it’s all a bit, a bit shut.
No matter. Happy that it’s ticked off the list I decide to jump back on the boat and head back to tourist central San Marco to shuffle round some shops. I am late to the collecting of monstrous fridge magnets as souvenirs, but it’s a must have so off I go.
First I walk all the way along the Lagoon edge to Arsenale dodging Italians talking excitedly on phones. They hold them in front of their faces on loud speaker instead of against their ears and shout at each other. “Hey Beppe!” “Ciao” Is all I hear.
Somehow I manage without trying to weave my way around the narrow shopping streets and without trying, find I have walked all the way back to Rialto. Fridge magnets acquired I pop to the Alilaguna station and buy my ticket for the boat back to the airport tomorrow morning. I buy a chiccetti (tapas) fried meatball and a glass of wine and prop up outside the bar to indulge.
I have found a cosy bar to sit down in is difficult to find. The Italian way is to perch standing, throw something back quickly and go. Italians only languish over dinner it appears.
Talking of dinner, it just wouldn’t be right if I didn’t treat myself at least once. Over the Rialto Bridge I find a small restaurant with canal side tables. Perfect to watch the cuddling couples on gondolas while taking in the evening canal whiffs! I order and look up at the heaving bridge, full of people watching the sunset. It’s a thing.
I order a passable over priced bowl of gnocchi and watch it all go on around me and reflect on my 2 full days here. I don’t think Italy will steal my heart in the same way Greece has. I have not felt as safe here as I do in the Greek Islands. I have been hyper vigilant for pickpockets as per the posters advising tourists to watch out! I haven’t carried a handbag but opted instead for a concealed cross body pouch worn under clothing. I am sure my lack of language skills has also held me back here as I stumble in apologetic English to communicate.
I amble back to my hotel full of starchy bombs of carbohydrate to pack my suitcase. Tomorrow morning I will be up early and off to the airport first thing.
I am so glad I have finally seen this place. It is unique and needs to be treated with more respect to ensure its preservation. Pop along in winter, just bring your thermals and big coat.
Gigi's Travels 