Another late evening arrival on a Greek island. This time it’s Rhodes (Rodos) in the Dodecanese. My ultimate destination is the much smaller island of Symi. Too late for a connecting ferry I have to stay in Rhodes tonight and head out in the morning.
I was last in Rhodes over 20 years ago. It is still noisy and bustling. A bit shabby and developed without sympathy. Rhodes was my first ever Greek island holiday, aged 16. Many more islands ticked off my list since. 16 at last count. I had a noisy and disturbed sleep next to the main road and woke early.
I was also last in Symi aged 16 on that first ever Greek holiday. I went for a three hour day trip with my parents. 36 years later I am on a small ferry heading back.
The ferry is the usual smorgasbord of nationalities. It is July and searingly hot so I choose to sit on deck in the open air. The sea has a swell this morning and I get splashed with sea water. I don’t care and it cools me down.
Symi sits snugly in amongst the Turkish coastline. On a map, the Datca/Marmaris peninsula of Turkey looks like a dragons claw grasping for the canapé sized Symi. The ferry I note raises the Turkish flag as we are so close to it’s coastline I could almost paddle ashore. The ferry must be in Turkish territory as it zigzags through these disputed waters in the Southern Aegean.
When Symi comes into view 90 mins later all heads turn, or rather all mobile phones turn to its picture postcard Chora or Chorio as it’s known. In stark contrast to Rhodes and the blue and white Cycladic islands, Symi is green and colourful. I am no good with architecture but I am going to take a punt and describe it at ‘Italianate, Neo Classical’ although I could be wrong.
I note there are a few gin palaces on display. The yachts that are here are all Turkish and fly the red flag with the white star and crescent. It’s another reminder I am right on the doorstep of Asia.
Once checked in to my hotel ‘Anastasia’ I set to my first day routine. Where am I? Where is the shop? Where is the bus? Where is the beach? Where can I eat? What is around me? It’s a simple checklist and so far I have all questions answered – everything I need and very sore feet. I had a very quick dip in the sea to cool off and walked some more.
Daytime Symi is packed with day trippers from Rhodes. They come on organised tours and groups of them follow a guide with a clipboard around the town. They buy the island’s famous sponges and dried herbs. I make a note to stock up on my oregano.
Let’s see what this evening brings. I think it will be quieter. I need to adjust my internal clock and settle into the circadian rhythm of this island. Up late, boat to the beach, back to town, shower, out and eat for about 8.30 to 9pm. That’s the Greek Island vibe I’m getting. I’m settling in nicely.
Gigi's Travels 